View from the Road to Korce
Ben just leaned over to me from his side of the bed and said he was sick of people telling him “Te shkuara” or may you get better soon. He has been getting this a lot for his ankle everytime someone sees the “strange” apparatus on his leg. More recently, he was wished a quick recovery, after a bout of food poisoning most likely from the famous Saranda mussels he ate last evening. After his stomach settled down, the good ole sickness decided to pass onto me. Now, that I got it out of my system, I am doing much better and even decided to start blogging ;) Poor Joan has been encouraging us to drink some coke to settle our stomachs, and has gone off to the beach to “get out of our hair.” The mussels she tried must have taken pity on her. We feel so bad she has to entertain herself today, but she is enjoying the pebbled Ionian beach just a 5 minute walk from our doorstep.
The vomiting seems to be a reoccurring theme for us this month in Albania. Last weekend we took a trip to see a few other volunteers living in the northeastern part of the country. We noticed that the bus workers were passing out plastic bags to the passengers. We just assumed that they were for trash. Little did we know that for the next 8 hours of the winding, hot, and painfully bumpy bus ride, we would be subjected to the noise and smells of several passengers getting sick from the long journey. One teenager boy even took advantage of a quick stop to get off the bus, and throw up along side the road. To his surprise, the bus took off, and he had to chase down the road after us to get back on. When we told another volunteer about the experience she laughed and asked us why we thought she puts vicks up her nose, and takes a Benadryl before she travels anywhere in Albania by bus. Smart woman!
What was also very memorable on the EIGHT hour bus journey were all of the flowers or pictures on the side of the road where people had been killed. There were not any guard rails along the narrow curvy road through the pine forest. Several times we had to swerve at the last second to avoid an oncoming car, bus, or minivan as we rounded the bends. Usually, the bus driver would beep his horn to warn others drivers we were approaching, but sometimes he did not…so it was quite the exciting ride. For 4 hours of the bus ride, I was seated on the bus floor between Ben’s legs. The driver decided to let on more people than there were available seats, and one of these passengers was in her late 60s and was going to have to stand for 6 hours. No one offered her their seat, so I decided I would fit fine on the floor so she would not have to fall forwards and backwards in the aisle as the driver avoided and passed other cars. She was so happy she stroked my hair several times and told Ben that I was such a good girl. I told her in my best Albanian that I was just grateful to be better protected from the projectile vomiting ;)
After we arrived to our destination, we spent two days in the city of Korca famous for its brewery. The Korca brewery made Albania’s first beer, and they have both a light and dark beer. Both are pretty good! The city is big, clean, and has the reputation of being Albania’s most cultured city. It has even been called the Paris of Albania. The streets are lined with trees and trendy bars and cafes. The first night we were there, we were able to meet up with several other volunteers and exchange stories at the annual Korca Beer Fest. Ben and I had not left our site for 2 ½ months so it was great to finally get out and see some new scenery other than the inside of our apartment! There was live music, 50 cent beers, 20 cent grilled sausages, and 90 cent bacon wrapped chicken skewers. The outdoor setting was really nice, and it was not overly crowded or noisy. The next day we spent getting a better feel for the city. We got a firsthand tour from the volunteer that lives there and saw the beautiful orthodox cathedrals, parks, and the enormous colorful market. I bought about 2 kilos of Italian plums for the equivalent of 50 cents! We also sampled the next closest thing to a cinnamon roll which was pretty tasty even if a distant relative. We walked a lot, but Ben did pretty well for the most part. The bruising is now gone, and he just has to build back his calf muscle. The volunteer that we stayed with is a retired doctor, and he gave Ben a few exercises to do, and told him he could start to walk without the brace. This was great timing since my mom was arriving only 3 days later.
I smell garlic…
When my mom asked us if we needed her to bring anything, I don’t think she anticipated the list she got. I think we got a little overexcited. We asked for pancake syrup, peanut butter, spices galore, school supplies, and some new articles of clothing that had gone one too many times through the 2 hour Albanian washing machine cycle. So after we met Joan at the ferry with her suitcase that had been stamped EXTRA heavy, we lugged the big red suitcase up the hill to our apartment. After her 2 minute tour of our place, we went through all of the goodies she brought. As we unpacked them though, it started to smell like an Italian restaurant in our kitchen. Shortly thereafter, we discovered that either the airport officials opened the savored minced garlic, or the lid popped open at the some point during the journey. Luckily, none of the oil spilled onto any of the clothing, but unfortunately Joan had enough of a garlic aroma on her clothes and underwear to ward off vampires for a full year ;) So began the first Peace Corps experience.
We hand washed all of her clean but smelly clothes and left them soak in three different containers throughout the apartment. When we were done we enjoyed a 90 cent beer as we ate lunch and Joan enjoyed the view. After lunch, we rested and caught up about life during the last five months. In the afternoon, we had a visit from 2 volunteers that were in town, and Joan got to hear about their towns and experiences. Next, Joan ate a rice and bean dish that we make regularly along with some Greek red wine. After dinner, we went out for a “coffee” with our next door neighbors/landlords/Ben’s counterpart. The new café we went to was only a 1 minute walk, was located on the water, and had a great view. Joan was so excited when she found out that coffee really meant that she could order juice, beer, water, soda, or even ice cream. After convincing her that ice cream was very normal to order, she got two big chocolate scoops complete with chocolate sauce. She was impressed that the cafes were filled with people of all ages, and was really into going out for a “coffee.” After coffee, we did a small Xhiro so she could get a taste. She was decked out just like the Albanians, and she was hit with all who met her. They could not believe how pretty and young she looked. She got the “very good” gesture that Ben loves to mimic over and over. Day two, we went to the beach which Joan thought was very nice but very salty, and then went out to eat an Albanian dinner. Joan enjoyed the Albanian meatballs (qofte) and spaghetti with sea fruits. Afterwards, she very valiantly tried the Raki with Ben. She thought it was great and tasted just like whiskey. Later we met up with my counterpart, and had another “coffee” around an in ground pool of a newly built hotel.
The vomiting seems to be a reoccurring theme for us this month in Albania. Last weekend we took a trip to see a few other volunteers living in the northeastern part of the country. We noticed that the bus workers were passing out plastic bags to the passengers. We just assumed that they were for trash. Little did we know that for the next 8 hours of the winding, hot, and painfully bumpy bus ride, we would be subjected to the noise and smells of several passengers getting sick from the long journey. One teenager boy even took advantage of a quick stop to get off the bus, and throw up along side the road. To his surprise, the bus took off, and he had to chase down the road after us to get back on. When we told another volunteer about the experience she laughed and asked us why we thought she puts vicks up her nose, and takes a Benadryl before she travels anywhere in Albania by bus. Smart woman!
What was also very memorable on the EIGHT hour bus journey were all of the flowers or pictures on the side of the road where people had been killed. There were not any guard rails along the narrow curvy road through the pine forest. Several times we had to swerve at the last second to avoid an oncoming car, bus, or minivan as we rounded the bends. Usually, the bus driver would beep his horn to warn others drivers we were approaching, but sometimes he did not…so it was quite the exciting ride. For 4 hours of the bus ride, I was seated on the bus floor between Ben’s legs. The driver decided to let on more people than there were available seats, and one of these passengers was in her late 60s and was going to have to stand for 6 hours. No one offered her their seat, so I decided I would fit fine on the floor so she would not have to fall forwards and backwards in the aisle as the driver avoided and passed other cars. She was so happy she stroked my hair several times and told Ben that I was such a good girl. I told her in my best Albanian that I was just grateful to be better protected from the projectile vomiting ;)
After we arrived to our destination, we spent two days in the city of Korca famous for its brewery. The Korca brewery made Albania’s first beer, and they have both a light and dark beer. Both are pretty good! The city is big, clean, and has the reputation of being Albania’s most cultured city. It has even been called the Paris of Albania. The streets are lined with trees and trendy bars and cafes. The first night we were there, we were able to meet up with several other volunteers and exchange stories at the annual Korca Beer Fest. Ben and I had not left our site for 2 ½ months so it was great to finally get out and see some new scenery other than the inside of our apartment! There was live music, 50 cent beers, 20 cent grilled sausages, and 90 cent bacon wrapped chicken skewers. The outdoor setting was really nice, and it was not overly crowded or noisy. The next day we spent getting a better feel for the city. We got a firsthand tour from the volunteer that lives there and saw the beautiful orthodox cathedrals, parks, and the enormous colorful market. I bought about 2 kilos of Italian plums for the equivalent of 50 cents! We also sampled the next closest thing to a cinnamon roll which was pretty tasty even if a distant relative. We walked a lot, but Ben did pretty well for the most part. The bruising is now gone, and he just has to build back his calf muscle. The volunteer that we stayed with is a retired doctor, and he gave Ben a few exercises to do, and told him he could start to walk without the brace. This was great timing since my mom was arriving only 3 days later.
I smell garlic…
When my mom asked us if we needed her to bring anything, I don’t think she anticipated the list she got. I think we got a little overexcited. We asked for pancake syrup, peanut butter, spices galore, school supplies, and some new articles of clothing that had gone one too many times through the 2 hour Albanian washing machine cycle. So after we met Joan at the ferry with her suitcase that had been stamped EXTRA heavy, we lugged the big red suitcase up the hill to our apartment. After her 2 minute tour of our place, we went through all of the goodies she brought. As we unpacked them though, it started to smell like an Italian restaurant in our kitchen. Shortly thereafter, we discovered that either the airport officials opened the savored minced garlic, or the lid popped open at the some point during the journey. Luckily, none of the oil spilled onto any of the clothing, but unfortunately Joan had enough of a garlic aroma on her clothes and underwear to ward off vampires for a full year ;) So began the first Peace Corps experience.
We hand washed all of her clean but smelly clothes and left them soak in three different containers throughout the apartment. When we were done we enjoyed a 90 cent beer as we ate lunch and Joan enjoyed the view. After lunch, we rested and caught up about life during the last five months. In the afternoon, we had a visit from 2 volunteers that were in town, and Joan got to hear about their towns and experiences. Next, Joan ate a rice and bean dish that we make regularly along with some Greek red wine. After dinner, we went out for a “coffee” with our next door neighbors/landlords/Ben’s counterpart. The new café we went to was only a 1 minute walk, was located on the water, and had a great view. Joan was so excited when she found out that coffee really meant that she could order juice, beer, water, soda, or even ice cream. After convincing her that ice cream was very normal to order, she got two big chocolate scoops complete with chocolate sauce. She was impressed that the cafes were filled with people of all ages, and was really into going out for a “coffee.” After coffee, we did a small Xhiro so she could get a taste. She was decked out just like the Albanians, and she was hit with all who met her. They could not believe how pretty and young she looked. She got the “very good” gesture that Ben loves to mimic over and over. Day two, we went to the beach which Joan thought was very nice but very salty, and then went out to eat an Albanian dinner. Joan enjoyed the Albanian meatballs (qofte) and spaghetti with sea fruits. Afterwards, she very valiantly tried the Raki with Ben. She thought it was great and tasted just like whiskey. Later we met up with my counterpart, and had another “coffee” around an in ground pool of a newly built hotel.
Day three, we just made the 8 o clock bus, and headed off to Butrint which is a very impressive archaeological site that has been inhabited since the Paleolithic ages. Julius Caesar used the site as a military base, as did the Greeks before him. Although Joan was not overly thrilled about visiting ruins in the horrible heat, after entering the site, she was pleasantly surprised that the ruins were the most shaded ruins she has visited. My counterpart who is also a tour guide happened to have a tour that day so he invited us to tag along and learn more about Butrint. After the tour, we headed to Ksamil, a beautiful sandy beach with turquoise water, and lush small islands that you can swim out to. After a relaxing day at the beach, we waited patiently for the bus, gave up and paid the tourist price to a cab driver who thought it was funny that I was gripping the handle on the door as he floored it.
The next day, Joan tried the famous Albanian suflaqe which is like the Greek gyro. I explained that the French fries were supposed to stay wrapped in the pita as you ate it. Afterwards, we beached it up again, and then got ready for a fish dinner out. Our friend/neighbor/postal worker suggested somewhere other where Ben and I had planned, and it had a beautiful view. As I explained above, Ben and I did not think the mussels were so beautiful but Joan got great cod, and Ola got delicious shrimp. Sunday we were supposed to head to Gjirokaster and show Joan another Albanian city, but it ended up being a beach day for Joan while Ben and I reckoned with the revenge of the mussels. I think it was this night that on one of our many trips to the bathroom, we found Joan lying on our kitchen floor with the Balcony doors wide open. In the morning she told us she had tried to fall asleep in our sweatbox, but even her wet washcloth therpay had not helped an ounce. So she decided even the floor had to be better. By Monday, we were back in business, and had an appetite again. We had a slow day, but Ben took Joan on a walking tour of the neighborhood so she could get oriented a little more. Tuesday, Joan accompanied me for an early coffee, which was really a coffee, with some Peace corps staff, and then headed to the University with me. She enjoyed meeting my 2 faithful students, and then we had another volunteer stop by for a quick visit along with her dad and brother. In the evening we did a very long xhiro with our next door neighbors and had “coffee” at a very nice place on the water where their son works. We had a very interesting conversation about how communism affected their lives, and how the country has changed so rapidly since the fall 20 years ago.
The following day we went back to the same spot we had gone for coffee the day prior since Joan really liked the spot. It is right on the water, has a great breeze, and is always packed with people. It is probably the most popular place to have coffee. We splurged and got frappes, a cappuccino, and a piece of tres leches cake. Before we left, Ben asked a young guy next to us if he would take our picture, and he said “yo” which means no and gave Ben the fingerwag for extra emphasis. Ben wanted to give him a fingerwag of another kind, but he refrained. As he walked away, I told him his man purse (fannypack over his shoulder) was very nice =) Well, actually I only told my mom and Ben. Other than that occurrence, we had a great rest of the afternoon and last evening. We took a long walk to say hi to the nuns, and see the clinic, and classrooms that they operate. Sister Ana thought Joan was my sister, and was very happy we came to say hi. Afterwards, we took a cab to the Lekurs Castle, and watched a gorgeous sunset over the city. We ate a delicious meal complete with a liter of wine for 30 dollars. Since the taxi driver was waiting for us, we were not able to stay for the live music, but it was quite windy at the top so the two hours we spent was perfect. Today, Ben headed to Tirane for a meeting, and Joan and I got a few hours in at the beach. After lunch we bought her ticket, and went out for one last “coffee” iced tea and Glina sparkling water with lemon which was her favorite. Around 4 we headed to the port, got her checked in, and put her on the ferry. It cracked me up that even though people had to show their passport, and ticket to an armed cop to board the ferry, my neighbor and I walked right on with Joan. They headed off promptly at 4 just as the last 2 passengers showed up. After what seemed like 10 minutes, they decided to come back and let them on so we got to say goodbye again. We had a wonderful visit, and lots of laughs! Now, the sun is setting, and the call to prayer is echoing across the bay. Joan is probably now settled and just about to venture out and find a nice greek dinner. My neighbor has checked in on me several times to make sure I am OK, and even suggested she would sleep here with me tonight, and that I could go to work with her tomorrow to pass the time. Wonder how I will get out of that.
Miss you all!
The next day, Joan tried the famous Albanian suflaqe which is like the Greek gyro. I explained that the French fries were supposed to stay wrapped in the pita as you ate it. Afterwards, we beached it up again, and then got ready for a fish dinner out. Our friend/neighbor/postal worker suggested somewhere other where Ben and I had planned, and it had a beautiful view. As I explained above, Ben and I did not think the mussels were so beautiful but Joan got great cod, and Ola got delicious shrimp. Sunday we were supposed to head to Gjirokaster and show Joan another Albanian city, but it ended up being a beach day for Joan while Ben and I reckoned with the revenge of the mussels. I think it was this night that on one of our many trips to the bathroom, we found Joan lying on our kitchen floor with the Balcony doors wide open. In the morning she told us she had tried to fall asleep in our sweatbox, but even her wet washcloth therpay had not helped an ounce. So she decided even the floor had to be better. By Monday, we were back in business, and had an appetite again. We had a slow day, but Ben took Joan on a walking tour of the neighborhood so she could get oriented a little more. Tuesday, Joan accompanied me for an early coffee, which was really a coffee, with some Peace corps staff, and then headed to the University with me. She enjoyed meeting my 2 faithful students, and then we had another volunteer stop by for a quick visit along with her dad and brother. In the evening we did a very long xhiro with our next door neighbors and had “coffee” at a very nice place on the water where their son works. We had a very interesting conversation about how communism affected their lives, and how the country has changed so rapidly since the fall 20 years ago.
The following day we went back to the same spot we had gone for coffee the day prior since Joan really liked the spot. It is right on the water, has a great breeze, and is always packed with people. It is probably the most popular place to have coffee. We splurged and got frappes, a cappuccino, and a piece of tres leches cake. Before we left, Ben asked a young guy next to us if he would take our picture, and he said “yo” which means no and gave Ben the fingerwag for extra emphasis. Ben wanted to give him a fingerwag of another kind, but he refrained. As he walked away, I told him his man purse (fannypack over his shoulder) was very nice =) Well, actually I only told my mom and Ben. Other than that occurrence, we had a great rest of the afternoon and last evening. We took a long walk to say hi to the nuns, and see the clinic, and classrooms that they operate. Sister Ana thought Joan was my sister, and was very happy we came to say hi. Afterwards, we took a cab to the Lekurs Castle, and watched a gorgeous sunset over the city. We ate a delicious meal complete with a liter of wine for 30 dollars. Since the taxi driver was waiting for us, we were not able to stay for the live music, but it was quite windy at the top so the two hours we spent was perfect. Today, Ben headed to Tirane for a meeting, and Joan and I got a few hours in at the beach. After lunch we bought her ticket, and went out for one last “coffee” iced tea and Glina sparkling water with lemon which was her favorite. Around 4 we headed to the port, got her checked in, and put her on the ferry. It cracked me up that even though people had to show their passport, and ticket to an armed cop to board the ferry, my neighbor and I walked right on with Joan. They headed off promptly at 4 just as the last 2 passengers showed up. After what seemed like 10 minutes, they decided to come back and let them on so we got to say goodbye again. We had a wonderful visit, and lots of laughs! Now, the sun is setting, and the call to prayer is echoing across the bay. Joan is probably now settled and just about to venture out and find a nice greek dinner. My neighbor has checked in on me several times to make sure I am OK, and even suggested she would sleep here with me tonight, and that I could go to work with her tomorrow to pass the time. Wonder how I will get out of that.
Miss you all!
Hi you all! What an incredibly funny and interesting story. You always have the best adventures. I could picture that darling Joan just charming everyone she met. I am hoping you are both on the mend and things are good. Take care and keep giving us stories, it is great!
ReplyDeleteLove, April